Why Is Saoji Mutton So Spicy? The 32-Spice Secret Behind Nagpur’s Famous Dish
5 min readNew DelhiUpdated: Aug 14, 2026 09:01 PM IST
I remember the first time I ate Saoji mutton. I was doing research for a travel and food show I was the scriptwriter for, and we were writing about Nagpur’s cuisine. Serendipitously, at the same time, there was a pop-up restaurant which was serving Saoji cuisine. The very spicy mutton, which was coated in a caramelised onion and roasted spice gravy, quite oil-drenched, was the stuff spicy dreams are made of. I, of course, ate this with rice, and while it’s not a preparation you can have daily, it is perfect fare for a cold winter Sunday lunch.
Saoji cuisine is suddenly in the spotlight because the Maharashtra Food and Drug Administration (FDA) Commissioner Tukaram Mundhe recently remarked that he can’t eat Saoji mutton because it’s too spicy. Of course, everyone immediately took offence, but in his defence, this is not a cuisine or spice level meant for anyone who cannot eat chillies.
You see, the essence of Saoji cuisine lies in Saoji masala – which is a blend of 32 different spices including peppercorns, star anise, coriander, cardamom, coconut, poppy seeds, red chillies, cloves, bay leaf, nutmeg and stone flower (dagadphool), and other whole spices which are pounded, then roasted and then mixed. Each spice, including the coconut, is roasted separately until they turn almost black. Then it is slow-cooked using either jute oil or linseed oil. This results in a black, or kaala masala. The slow roasting of the spices is integral to this masala, because it allows them to release their distinct oils, which leads to an intense flavour. Saoji cuisine is found in Vidarbha and Nagpur.
Saoji mutton is what this masala is known for. The goat meat is cooked with onions, ginger and garlic, and simmered in a gravy flavoured with Saoji masala for hours. The result is a dark mutton gravy which is thinnish, deep reddish-black in colour, very rich and aromatic, and has a generous layer of oil on it. There is no subtlety in Saoji cuisine. It is spicy, it is oily, it is the reason the FDA commissioner steers clear of it.
An explanation for why Saoji cuisine is so hot is that the heat of the cuisine is supposed to counter the heat of Nagpur and help people regulate their temperature. I think that’s a far stretch – but I am impressed by how the cuisine is being innovated to appeal to a younger generation. Just two months ago, when I was in Nagpur and eating at a very cool burger and pasta joint, I had the chance to taste a Saoji Pulled Mutton Burger, which was very impressive.
The food – which is usually mutton but now also includes chicken, paneer and jackfruit – was originally cooked in earthen pots (Photo: AI Generated)
The food – which is usually mutton but now also includes chicken, paneer and jackfruit – was originally cooked in earthen pots. The tediousness of the process is what makes Saoji mutton delicious. First, you need to individually roast the 32 spices, then grind them into a masala. Sliced onions need to be browned until caramelised, after which ginger and garlic are added, followed by the meat, which is cooked over low heat, and then topped with generous amounts of oil or ghee. It is supposed to be served with bhakri, roti, rice, or local breads.
Halba Koshti community
Even though Nagpur and Saoji cuisine are synonymous, Saoji masala and cuisine didn’t originate there. The cuisine was created by the Halba Koshti community, which is originally from Madhya Pradesh. Known for their weaving skills, the community migrated to Nagpur in the late 19th century to work in the textile industry. When the handloom industry declined, the Halba Koshtis turned to their culinary heritage for a livelihood. And thus was born Saoji masala.
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The spread of the cuisine was when it started being sold as an affordable meal option for mill workers and labourers. Saoji bhojanalayas started mushrooming, with a focus on taste without the bells and whistles of presentation. Most bhojanalayas could be identified by their wooden benches and metal plates, and hot, freshly prepared meals. And today, Saoji cuisine is a cornerstone of Nagpur cuisine. Adding even more heat to a hot city.
Come summer, and North Indian sweet shops and homes are filled with a Rajasthani delicacy – Ghevar. My next column is dedicated to this honeycomb-like- mithai, and whether it’s worth the hype.
